Deep Currents

Somewhere, Michael Pollan is feeling vindicated. His book In Defense of Food makes an impassioned argument that America is eating wrong and proposes a simple set of guidelines for how to eat with the common sense that humans have had for millennia. As it says on the cover: eat food, not too much, and mostly plants. The book is a plea to join the movement of consumers who are adopting a new conservatism in their relationship with food, minimizing their reliance on the high-efficiency industrial food production that we’ve been expanding since the 1950s in favor of simple vegetables that are as fresh, local, and sustainable as possible. But how big is this movement he wants us to join? At least according to one report on food industry trends, it’s large and growing fast. Based on focus group study of consumers across the country, it offers some intriguing analysis that arguable reflects a new Pollan-ist swing in the marketplace:

• Consumers are gradually transitioning away from ascetic, medicalized eating styles, “quick fix” diets or supplements, and so-called “better for you” packaged foods and practicing a more mindful eating style via engaging, higher quality experiences
• Retailers are seeing growth in local products, fresh produce, and high-quality products — though a plateauing of interest in organic and some temporary spending cuts to adjust to the recession
• Several forward leaning grocery retailers have initiated “grocer grown” and “store grown” programs to ensure a steady supply of local, high-quality produce
• Several major retailers (Tesco, Wal-Mart & Safeway) have launched small-format grocery retail chains (Fresh & Easy, Marketside & The Market) emphasizing ease of use and convenience as well as fresh & prepared food offerings.
• CSAs have already spread into the mainstream in many major metro areas and is now reaching minor cities as well
• Mainstream chain restaurants are emphasizing local produce, seasonal menus, and heirloom products
• Small portions and small-plate dishes continue to grow in popularity
• A movement is afoot among chefs to reimagine fine dining in a less-pretentious form with the use of communal dinners, fixed menus set by the chef, “underground restaurants” that happen as a series of dining events with no fixed location, gourmet street food, and even new scientific cooking methods.

Written: January 12th, 2009